10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes
Here is a nice stack of different homemade laundry detergent recipes I’ve collected over the years. Do they work? Yes, I’ve had good luck with them.
At the time I was using homemade detergent, we had a relative who was in trade school living with us. Every day he was mechanic grease from head to toe–the clothes cleaned up nice!
Making your own laundry detergent is a discipline and it’s not for everyone. But it definitely saves money.
Tips:
For the bar soaps required in the recipes, you could try Fels-Naptha, Ivory soap, Sunlight bar soap, Kirk’s Hardwater Castile, and Zote. Don’t use heavily perfumed soaps.
Washing Soda and Borax can normally be found in the laundry and cleaning aisles.
Some people with really hard water or well water may have to adjust the recipes if the clothes look dingy.
Although several of the recipes have the same ingredients, the measurements are different–some contain a higher soap to water ratio. Test and see which works best for your laundry needs.
You can make huge pails of this at once, or smaller quantities. Also if you can get your hands on a few empty liquid laundry detergent bottles they work great for storing the detergent. Just make a big batch and pour in bottles, cap then use as needed–shake before use.
Some of the recipes call for large amounts of water. Check with a local restaurant to see if they have any empty large pails from deep fryer oil–that’s how many restaurants buy the oil. See if you can have one or two of the pails after they’ve emptied it–just wash them out really well before using. They’re big, heavy plastic and very sturdy when stirring the soap and hot water.
10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes
Recipe #1
1 quart Water (boiling)
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Borax
2 cups Washing Soda
- Add finely grated bar soap to the boiling water and stir until soap is melted. You can keep on low heat until soap is melted.
- Pour the soap water into a large, clean pail and add the Borax and Washing Soda. Stir well until all is dissolved.
- Add 2 gallons of water, stir until well mixed.
- Cover pail and use 1/4 cup for each load of laundry. Stir the soap each time you use it (will gel).
Recipe #2
Hot water
1 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1 Soap bar
- Grate the bar soap and add to a large saucepan with hot water. Stir over medium-low heat until soap dissolves and is melted.
- Fill a 10 gallon pail half full of hot water. Add the melted soap, Borax and Washing soda, stir well until all powder is dissolved. Top the pail up with more hot water.
- Use 1 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).
Recipe #3
Hot water
1/2 cup Washing Soda
1/2 cup Borax
1/3 bar Soap (grated)
- In a large pot, heat 3 pints of water. Add the grated bar soap and stir until melted. Then add the washing soda and borax. Stir until powder is dissolved, then remove from heat.
- In a 2 gallon clean pail, pour 1 quart of hot water and add the heated soap mixture. Top pail with cold water and stir well.
- Use 1/2 cup per load, stirring soap before each use (will gel).
Powdered Laundry Detergent - Recipe #4
2 cups Fels Naptha Soap (finely grated - you could also try the other bar soaps listed at the top)
1 cup Washing Soda
1 cup Borax
- Mix well and store in an airtight plastic container.
- Use 2 tablespoons per full load.
Recipe #5
Hot water
1 bar (4.5 oz) Ivory Soap - grated
1 cup Washing Soda
- In a large saucepan add grated soap and enough hot water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is melted.
- Fill a large pail with 2.5 gallons of hot water, add hot soap mixture. Stir until well mixed.
- Then add the washing soda, again stirring until well mixed.
- Set aside to cool.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load, stirring well before each use (will gel)
Recipe #6
2.5 gallons Water (hot)
1 Bar soap (grated)
3/4 cup Washing Soda
3/4 cup Borax
2 TBS Glycerin
- Melt bar soap over medium-low heat topped with water, stir until soap is melted.
- In a large pail, pour 2.5 gallons of hot water, add melted soap mixture, washing soda, borax and glycerin. Mix well.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load.
Recipe #7
2 cups Bar soap (grated)
2 cups Washing Soda
2 - 2.5 gallons hot water
- Melt grated soap in saucepan with water to cover. Heat over medium-low heat and stir until soap is dissolved.
- Pour hot water in large pail, add hot soap and washing soda. Stir very well.
- Use 1 cup per full load.
Recipe #8
2 gallons Water (hot)
1 bar Soap (grated)
2 cups Baking soda (yes baking soda this time–not washing soda)
- Melt grated soap in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover. Cook on medium-low heat, stirring frequently until soap is melted.
- In a large pail, pour 2 gallons hot water. Add melted soap, stir well.
- Then add the baking soda, stir well again.
- Use 1/2 cup per full load, 1 cup per very soiled load.
Powdered Laundry Detergent - Recipe #9
12 cups Borax
8 cups Baking Soda
8 cups Washing Soda
8 cups Bar soap (grated)
- Mix all ingredients well and store in a sealed tub.
- Use 1/8 cup of powder per full load.
Recipe #10 - (Powdered)
1 cup Vinegar (white)
1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
- Mix well and store in sealed container.
- I find it easiest to pour the liquid soap into the bowl first, stirred in the washing soda, then baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches at a time (the recipe foams up at first). The mixture is a thick paste at first that will break down into a heavy powdered detergent, just keep stirring. There may be some hard lumps, try to break them down when stirring (it really helps to make sure the baking soda isn’t clumpy when first adding).
Liquid Detergents Note:
Soap will be lumpy, goopy and gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using. Make sure soap is covered with a lid when not in use. You could also pour the homemade soap in old (and cleaned) laundry detergent bottles and shake well before each use.
*If you can’t find Fels-Naptha locally, you can buy it online (check Amazon).
Optional:
You can add between 10 to 15 drops of essential oil (per 2 gallons) to your homemade laundry detergent. Add once the soap has cooled to room temperature. Stir well and cover.
Essential oil ideas: lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil
*Admin Update: clarified instructions for Recipe #10 and liquid detergent notes.
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Posted in DIY Projects, Frugal Living, Homemade Cleaners, Laundry, Popular Tips | 
( 201 )
15 Mar 2007 at 8:36 am
I have been using homemade laundry soap for a while now and my family loves it. It leaves no odor on your clothes and rinses clean. I put 1/2 cup white vinegar in my downy ball and use for fab. softener. It works GREAT!!!
29 Mar 2007 at 10:56 pm
[...] 10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes » TipNut.com Making your own laundry detergent is a discipline and it’s not for everyone. But it definitely saves money. [...]
24 Apr 2007 at 7:57 pm
I want to make my own laundry detergent preferably the powder. I have an infant, a 4 year old with eczema and coconut allergy and trying to avoid xenoestrogens. I usually use the Nature Clean, but is is expensive and backordered! I’ve heard contradicting opinions on the safety of Borax. And a lot of the bar soaps have coconut in them. DR. Bronners liquid castile also has coconut. Question: Can I use something like grated Kiss My Face which is 100% olive oil soap?
24 Apr 2007 at 8:50 pm
Yes, but where do you get washing soda? I’ve never been able to find it!
25 Apr 2007 at 7:58 am
Washing soda can be found pretty much at all grocery stores, Wal-Mart, etc. It’s in the powdered laundry detergent area. I think the common name brand is Arm and Hammer (be sure not to buy Arm and Hammer detergent). It will say washing soda.
25 Apr 2007 at 9:13 am
Melissa I’m not familiar with that soap, but it sounds like a beauty/moisturizing bar to me. I’m wondering if it wouldn’t leave a residue on fabrics? (I read the Amazon reviews). Does the Ivory bar soap cause problems for your son?
Sheryllyn Melissa’s right–it’s found in the laundry aisle (at least that’s where I’ve always seen it). Walmart definitely has it, and yes, it’s Arm & Hammer Washing Soda that I’ve used.
04 Jul 2007 at 8:37 pm
Fels Naptha soap, Arm and Hammer Washing Soda and Borax is sold at Kroger Grocery stores in Tennesse
18 Jul 2007 at 12:54 pm
Our Walmart does not have Washing Soda!
But I have tried recipe #6 with sucess.
19 Aug 2007 at 3:07 pm
I make my own cold process soap and use it to make laundry soap. However, to anyone asking what soaps you can use? You can use any soap that lists sodium palmate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, etc. Just be sure you are using real soap and not detergent beauty bars with added free oils. (i.e. dove, etc)
You can use anything like Ivory, Dial, Irish Spring, Lever, etc.
I find that the homemade laundry soap does work, but be sure to use some vinegar in a downy ball to ensure it rinses clean from not only your clothing but from building up over time with soap scum inside your washer and hoses.
22 Aug 2007 at 9:43 am
I am also trying to avoid xenoestrogens so the only soap I use for my skin is Naturally Clear, which is pure glycerin soap. can I use that in the laundry soap recipes? right now I just use equal parts of Borax and washing soda in my laundry.
07 Oct 2007 at 9:28 pm
Hi, I just made my laundry soap for the first time and I absolutely love it!!!!! It got my clothes so clean, and it was so easy to make!!! I gave my mom some and she also thought it was the best!!! No more buying laundry soap for me, I’m making my own!!! Thanks for the recipes!! I think I’m going to try the homeade febreeze next!!!
10 Oct 2007 at 7:43 pm
For recipe #10, it doesn’t say how much to use for each load. Any suggestions?
16 Oct 2007 at 2:30 pm
Does anyone know the difference between washing soda & baking soda, and why it makes a difference? I’m having trouble finding the washing soda locally all of a sudden, and was hoping I could use some of this big BUCKET of baking soda I happen to have…
Thanks!
16 Oct 2007 at 7:32 pm
I don’t like the smell or stickiness of bar soap. Can I substitute liquid soap and how much? Help! Also, I can’t find washing soda, so I’m substituting same amout of Oxyclean. Seems to work.
16 Oct 2007 at 10:06 pm
Abbey why not try recipe #8 if you have no washing soda, it’s just calls for baking soda. I think for the other recipes you could try and see what results you get, maybe add a bit more soap to make up for the missing washing soda.
Andrea, sorry I missed your question. I went through my notes and don’t see any suggested amount to use. I’d start with 1/2 cup per load and work up or down if needed on the next load.
26 Oct 2007 at 7:19 am
Washing soda is Sodium Carbonate Decahydrate. Baking Soda is sodium Bicarbonate. If you can’t find the Arm & Hammer Washing Soda, I’ve heard you can buy Sodium Carbonate Decahydrate at any store that sells pools supplies.
For those with coconut allergies, as far as I know the fels naptha does not contain any coconut based products, but if you are still leary you can buy lye soap in bulk on the net for pretty cheap and it works great too. Just make sure that you inquire from the manufacturer of the lye soap that it is lard based and not vegetable based. Most vegetable based lye soaps usually have coconut oil in them.
I’ve been using the powder recipe for my laundry and it has been working great. I plan on trying one of the liquid recipes next. I also use fels naptha, lye soap or ivory as pre treaters with great results.
08 Nov 2007 at 11:59 am
Hi there, I am so excited to have found this page with receipes for home-made laundry detergents:-) I have to avoid all xenestrogens and it was recommended to me to use “Nature Clean” laundry detergent (which we don’t seem to have in the U.K.) or alternatively Trisodium Phosphate (which is not exactly friendly to the environment).
On the practical side of home made laundry detergents: What is the easiest way to grate soap bars? Do you just use an ordinary cheese grater?
Also, how long can home made detergent be kept for? Is there any time limit?
09 Nov 2007 at 3:35 am
Hi Astrid, yes just use a cheese grater for grating the soap.
I’m not sure how long the homemade detergents can be kept for. I’ve never had a problem with it, usually using up whatever batches I’ve made within a few weeks.
Hope this helps :).
15 Dec 2007 at 8:40 pm
Can you use these recipes with a high effiency washer. I just got one this year and I dont want to mess it up.
15 Dec 2007 at 8:58 pm
I can’t say for sure Melissa, does the washer you have come with restrictions on the type of soap or detergent used?
16 Dec 2007 at 8:55 am
Of course they want you to use the really expensive H/E only soaps. I will have to get the book out to see what it says about it.
18 Dec 2007 at 10:26 am
Baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) slowly turns into washing soda (Sodium Carbonate, a.k.a. soda ash) when heated above 140 degrees F. The carbon dioxide released is what makes things rise. If you heat baking soda to 350-400 degrees, it’ll turn into washing soda fairly quickly.
Washing soda is also sold in pool supply stores as “soda ash”, and is used to raise the pH of the water. (Read the label to make sure it is 100% Sodium Carbonate).
01 Jan 2008 at 3:53 pm
I had the same problem finding washing soda, aka soda ash and sodium carbonate. Yes,sodium carbonate is used in pools to increase the pH. The best place I have found to get it is at intheswim.com; choose “more” under pool chemicals. (pH Increaser is soda ash) it comes in sizes up to 50lb bag. My girlfriend and I went in on 100 lb with free shipping so it was a deal. If you get on their email list they send out notices when they have free shipping.
Wal-mart and others have this in the pool supplies but is more expensive.
Also, this works GREAT in front loading washers! I use my own cold process soap instead of bar soap.
03 Jan 2008 at 2:04 pm
My daughter has sensitive skin so I wanted to use her body wash that she uses to make her some detergent. She didn’t have enough so I used the White Rain that I had to make the liquid. I dissolved the body wash with the heated water and everything was going great until I added the Borax and the Washing Soda. It immediately started to stink up my kitchen. You know that awful smell at the beauty parlor when someone is having the hair dyed/treated? :>(
That is what it smelled like. I had to quickly dump it out.
Does anyone have any idea what might have happened?
03 Jan 2008 at 2:42 pm
I’d say there’s an ingredient in the body wash that reacts with the Borax and the two should not be mixed together.
06 Jan 2008 at 2:08 pm
Iam so glad I found these tips. I ‘ve been wanting to find the right recipe to homemade laundry detergent. Please help, I have tried several recipes but my clothes comes out dirty. I know we have hard water, how would I adjust the recipe to compensate. Thanks for your advise.
06 Jan 2008 at 6:29 pm
Nitza I don’t have any more advice than what I have up above. Maybe someone reading this can add their notes and what worked for them to beat the hard water problem.
11 Jan 2008 at 8:25 pm
To Laura above
It had a reaction probably because the white rain is not a soap but a surfactant based product. You need real soap and not a surfactant based product. Most body washes and shampoo products are surfactant based. Just get some solid soap and grate it up. If you really want to use liquid soap something like Dr. Bronners liquid soap will work as that is soap based and not surfactant based. It is a liquid soap because instead of using sodium hydroxide to make the soap they use potassium hydroxide which results in liquid soap.
I am getting ready to make another batch of laundry detergent and will be using the powdered recipe above. I will be making some cp lard and coconut soap and grating that up. I made some of the liquid laundry soap recipes listed above, and while they do work I am not crazy about dealing with a 5 gallon pail of glop.
11 Jan 2008 at 11:29 pm
Nice info Charity, thanks for sharing…and glop is the perfect word! lol!
19 Jan 2008 at 12:33 pm
Nitza,
Have you tried adding 1/2 cup of baking soda per washload to help soften your water (on top of the soda in the soap)? We have a mill near us (where they sell animal foods) and baking soda is sold in 50 pound bags for under $10.00. This is “animal grade” soda so I would not use it for baking as I do not know what the “purity” factor is like.
19 Jan 2008 at 12:44 pm
Charity,
Instead of making a “5 gallon pail of glop”, why don’t you use empty gallon vinegar bottles? These are easy to handle.
The recipe I have (before finding this page) is to melt 1/3 bar of Fels Naptha in 6 cups of hot water over steady heat (do not boil). I usually pour hot water into my 6 quart pot, turn on the heat, add grated soap, then bring just to under a boil. Stir, then turn off heat and allow to sit for about 10-15 minutes. The soap will be melted and you haven’t had to babysit it. Then I add the washing soda and borax, stirring well to dissolve, then I divide equally into two empty vinegar jugs (1 gallon size).
I use a basic 2 cup size measuring cup. I think you get approximately 3 1/3 cups per jug. Then I add 2 cups very hot tap water, put lid on tight, give a few vigorous shakes, release lid slowly (the heat will cause pressure in jug). Then I add another 2-3 cups of hot water and repeat the shake, then add remaining water to about 2″ from top. You may have to allow suds to settle some before adding the last cup or two. Give one last shake to mix all ingredients. Allow soap to sit in jugs unlidded until cool. Then replace lid and store in laundry room. No more 5 gallon pail problems!
This makes a nice gift for others, too. I made several gallons in empty vinegar jugs for gift giving, along with a card that had directions, as Christmas gifts. You use 1/2 cup to 2/3 cup per load, depending on size and filth of load.
Lori S.
19 Jan 2008 at 12:47 pm
Instead of using a cheese grater, I use a paring knife on the Fels Naptha soap as the soap will come off in small powdery pieces that melt more quickly. You will still get a few larger pieces, but the melt time is much faster. It only takes about 2-3 minutes to pare a 1/3 bar of soap. I can have a batch of 2 jugs of soap done in less than 1/2 hour (this is with melting time).
21 Jan 2008 at 1:29 pm
I buy (from the $ store) the laundry booster (Oxyclean) and it makes your laundry even whiter! I love this stuff!
22 Jan 2008 at 3:12 pm
To Lori S.
I use my own handmade soap and I blended it with a stick blender into the water. Since I am using my own cold process soap, I noticed that the solution ended up being too thick to put in pour spout bottles. (Or bottles of any kind) I ended up having to scoop it out and use it that way. Plus, I am just a bit worried about storing anything liquid without a preservative system in place as bacteria can build up in it. Just because you can’t see it, doesn’t mean it isn’t there. (this concern comes from all my research and development and 14 years of making handmade soaps and lotions). I find that making the powdered soap works just fine by grating then grinding it all up in my food processor. I have a 5 gallon bucket of the powder that I made and I only need 1/8 of a cup. I really like the powder better. But your mileage may vary according to your preference to liquids over powders. My powder is such a fine powder that it all dissolves perfectly in the washing machine. I figure my 5 gallon bucket of powder will last a good 4-5 years. It cost me with making my own cold process soap along with the other ingredients about $10 for the huge bucket full. I think I am set for a long time before I need to worry about making more
30 Jan 2008 at 3:26 pm
hi all
thanks alot about your work for helping us in making more and more detergent and soap
i want to participate in giving information and in getting answer about my ?
04 Feb 2008 at 12:55 pm
I read on another site that Washing soda is very caustic and you should wear gloves to use it. In the recipe that uses 8 cups baking soda and 8 cups Washing soda, could you use all baking soda? I was wondering because it says that the baking soda is basically the same, but not as caustic.
05 Feb 2008 at 3:41 am
Colleen I can’t guarantee the results since I haven’t tried it, but I would say split the washing soda amount between the baking soda and borax (4 cups of each).
19 Feb 2008 at 4:20 pm
Has anyone used recipe #5? I did some research on borax and was shocked to see it is concidered a poison. Should this be used in our clothes. Fels naphta also had some toxic effects. I wanted to start making my own soaps for safety reasons, yet in my search I’m finding some of these soaps to be just as toxic.
19 Feb 2008 at 4:47 pm
Hi Cristy, here’s some info on Borax: Wikipedia - Borax, it’s used widely in detergents.
Soaps, cleaners and laundry cleaners are harmful if consumed, Borax is no different.
19 Feb 2008 at 7:11 pm
Can these detergents be used with cold water?? I am also trying to save on my electric bill
20 Feb 2008 at 5:56 am
Hi Carla, it should be no problem but I’ve been doing some reading about laundry and I hesitate to recommend cold water laundry. Here’s an article: Scientist At Work: Charles Gerba, quote (bolding mine)…
20 Feb 2008 at 8:01 am
Thanks for the info on borax. I am looking forward to trying these soaps.
24 Feb 2008 at 7:35 pm
I’m interested in people’s experiences with homemade soap in HE machines too. I’m all for homemade, less-toxic laundry soap. I’ve had issues in the past with using non-HE soaps in my washer, and having to run everything through an extra rinse cycle or two. I’d like to avoid that if I can, and to be sure the soap will dissolve in the first place as well (Powdered would be much easier for me to make and store, though I’ll do gel if I have to).
28 Feb 2008 at 7:59 am
Hi! Can you use any of these recipes in a he washer? Thanks!
03 Mar 2008 at 9:33 am
[...] also spent some time making homemade laundry soap (melon scented!) using recipe #1 on that [...]
04 Mar 2008 at 10:35 am
Anyone use this for infants?
07 Mar 2008 at 9:20 am
[...] A while ago I mentioned that we had made some homemade laundry soap using Recipe #1 on this page. [...]
08 Mar 2008 at 9:16 am
hello,i made my own recipe,i used dawn ultra concitrated dish liquid and amonia.6 ounces of dawn,and 2 cups of amonia 2 gallons of water.i had 2 dollars ivestment in the dawn and amonia and it made 4 gallons of liquid detergent for just 2 dollars ,then i just used it like i would any liquid detergent.if you try this let me know how it worked for you ,i like it and its cheap ,i bought my stuff at the dollar store.
09 Mar 2008 at 2:09 pm
Hello Everyone,
For the last year, I have been using the following Mix for my Sears Kenmore HE front loader:
3 bars Fels Naptha
3 cups Borax
3 cups Arm and Hammer Washing Soda.
Grate the Fels Naptha, then put in a food processor with a chopping blade and chop until fine.
Pour into a large bowl with the Borax and Washing Soda and stir until combined.
Use 1/4 cup in a HE front loader, use 1/2 cup in a top loader. In my HE front loader, it dissolves perfectly
I use Vinegar as the fabric softener and add Mrs. White’s Liquid Bluing for the Whites load. The whites come out wonderful, the colors are bright and clean., and best of all, it is better for the environment.
09 Mar 2008 at 8:15 pm
Wow Troy, thanks very much for sharing your recipe and info for the HE detergent, a few people were wanting more details on that. Very much appreciated, thanks :).
14 Mar 2008 at 8:22 pm
In articles I’ve read on the web sites diaperpin.com, wisegeek.com and wikipedia.com Washing soda is listed as an extremely caustic agent and all advised wearing gloves when using it. In fact, diaperpin.com advises against it’s use in homemade laundry detergents at all. Wisegeek.com advises that it can cause severe skin burns. I don’t feel like this is a safe ingredient to be using in these recipes; however, “that’s just my opinion, I could be wrong” (Dennis Miller).
14 Mar 2008 at 11:24 pm
Hi Beverly, I decided to pull out all my boxes and make some notes and comparisons, I think your concerns are the same as some others may be thinking–so I’m glad you shared them here :).
Here’s a breakdown of Washing Soda, Borax and 2 ready-made commercial laundry detergents (Tide and Ultra).
Arm & Hammer So Clean Super Washing Soda:
My note:
Borax - 20 Mule Team
Tide Original (powdered detergent)
Ultra Liquid Laundry Detergent
Soaps and detergents, whether they’re homemade or commercially produced, shouldn’t be consumed, inhaled, splashed in eyes, what have you. They are pretty harsh actually, even liquid hand soap or bubble bath shouldn’t be consumed and would probably require a call to the Poison Control Center.
Both the Borax and the Washing Soda are produced and marketed as laundry boosters and that they can safely be used as additives to detergents (specifically states so on both boxes).
No matter which laundry detergent you buy, not matter how mild, I don’t think there’s one on the market that is safe to consume, inhale, or splash in eyes. I could be wrong–I haven’t checked every label for every detergent.
15 Mar 2008 at 2:09 am
Hi Tip Nut!
I have been making my own laundry soap for a couple of months now. I started out making it with regular bar soaps I had on hand, but got Zote and Fels Naptha and love them. I make the powdered version, 1 cup soap, 1/2 cup Borax and washing soda.
Two questions: 1)how fine do you have to grate the soap? I use a cheese grater and it grates the soap into tiny curls and it’s worked fine so far. I haven’t had problems with it not dissolving, not that I know of. One bar of soap would roughly make 2 cups grated.
When I measure the grated soap, should I pack it into the measuring cup, thus calling for more soap?
Or should I be grinding it up more, like into a powder?
I had 1 cup of soap that was grated from the cheese grater, put it into a ziplock bag, sealed it, went over it with rolling pin and made it into a powder. That one cup, now powdered, equaled 1/2 cup. with my regular recipe, I’d need double the amount. Which makes me wonder if I’m using enough soap.
So should I be grating this into a powder or packing the grated soap down into the cup more?
Thanks!
15 Mar 2008 at 4:59 am
Hi Natasha
If the grated soap is working out (both in terms of cleaning your clothes and dissolving properly) I’d continue as you have been. The recipes were intending a fine grate (using the smaller holes on the grater). The washing soda and the Borax help clean too, so I think you’re covered as-is (since your results are good).
15 Mar 2008 at 3:44 pm
I wasn’t specifically referring to consuming, or splashing in the eyes, but ALL powders are inhaled to some degree when used. Also, even though the boxes of wasing soda don’t have a caustic labeling on them, the websites I mentioned in my previous post all found it to be very caustic and in particular unsafe to use when washing baby items. I also speak to the effect this product would have on the environment. The reason we turn to alternative household products are to cut down/eliminate the damage to the environment commercial products cause. I feel like washing soda is a damaging product and should not be included in the recipe; however, to each his own. People need to do their own research and judge for themselves. I wasn’t attempting to discredit the detergent recipes listed here by any means, but rather to enlighten the readers of this site concerning something that could be of harm to them, their families and the environment. Other than that one item I think the recipes are wonderful and really enjoy reading the ideas on this site.
15 Mar 2008 at 4:39 pm
Beverly you’ve presented washing soda here as something very dangerous and that it needs every precaution to prevent skin burns based on what you’ve read elsewhere. You have those concerns and I appreciate that, but I feel we’re comparing apples to apples–detergents and soaps are harsh or contain harsh ingredients.
I decided to test how caustic Washing Soda is and sat here for a full minute with my hand sitting in a bowl of powdered Washing Soda. I didn’t get burned and my skin is still intact. I had no fear because if it really was that caustic, it would have to have symbols and warnings on the box (by law, I live in Canada), just like laundry bleach has.
Next I mixed a 50/50 ratio of water and Washing Soda and dipped my fingers in, moved them around the bowl for close to a minute. Again, I have no burns, experienced no discomfort and the skin is still on my fingers.
Washing soda has the same care needs as all soaps and detergents, you shouldn’t consume it, breathe it or splash it in your eyes.
If you’re concerned about environmentally friendly detergents, you’re right, this isn’t the most earth friendly detergent available (along with the rest of the laundry detergents on the market). If it’s a specialty laundry detergent (certified green and earth friendly), these aren’t the recipes for you and I realize that they may be hard to find locally, but shopping online for “organic laundry detergent” or “green environmentally safe laundry detergent” may bring some results.
20 Mar 2008 at 5:49 am
i tried recipe 1 mine did not gel or look like thick goop …..it looks clabbered (like clabbered milk) or slightly curdled.I did everything the direction said …i don’t know where i went wrong.May be i should try the dry recipe after this batch is gone …i dunno
20 Mar 2008 at 7:43 am
This batch will still work Amanda, it’s hard to say why it isn’t goopy for you. How fresh is the batch? It will take a couple days to get thicker, just make sure to stir it up well so the soap doesn’t settle at the bottom.
20 Mar 2008 at 9:50 am
I just today stumbled onto this idea of making one’s own laundry soap, while I was looking for some cute reusable grocery bags. How interesting! I really like the idea of the powdered type, as it sounds so easy to make as well as less expensive than commercial laundry soaps.
After reading lots of information and everyone’s tips here on this site, I do still have a couple of questions…
I really don’t want to have to start using warm/hot water in my laundry, not only because of the increased electric bill but because I don’t want to shrink or damage my clothing. How successful has cold water been (for those who have used it) in really getting the laundry clean?
How harsh are these products (Borax, Washing Soap, Vinegar) on fabrics? I worry that they won’t be gentle enough for my nicer clothes. I’m worried about fading of my dark slacks, my black fabrics, my sweaters, etc. ???
Other than these two concerns, I really like the idea of making my own detergent, and would go in search of the products today!
20 Mar 2008 at 11:33 am
Hi Melinda, I’ve had no problems using homemade detergent for the same items that commercial brands can be used for. I noticed no issues with fading.
For laundry temperatures, I agree that a lot of things just can’t be washed in hot water. Laundry comes out visibly clean in cold water, but I linked to that article to show how cold water laundry doesn’t kill or fully remove all invisible nasties (that was for any detergent). I decided things like bedding, towels, underwear, cleaning cloths & sponges should really be washed in hot water or at least given a good length of time in the dryer and/or a glug of laundry bleach in the wash if possible. It’s nice to be able to save money/energy or be more environmentally friendly, but E. coli and salmonella are nothing to be fooled with IMO.
20 Mar 2008 at 9:09 pm
Thanks for the response, Tipnut. I actually do wash “things like bedding, towels, underwear, cleaning cloths” in hot water. I agree with you there. It’s my clothes that I wash in cold water, so they don’t shrink or fade. But, you don’t have any problems with the homemade detergent in cleaning your clothing? You find it gentle enough for nicer clothes? That’s good to know!
Thanks again!
21 Mar 2008 at 12:00 am
That’s right Melinda, I experienced no problems at all with any of my nicer clothing items. I did use Ivory soap bars in my recipes, but I don’t think any of the other bars would cause problems.
21 Mar 2008 at 10:28 am
it is now 3 days old …
granules(it looks like ) are on top and colored water on bottom.
it looks like it has seperated.I am am stiriing well and using it any way .
22 Mar 2008 at 5:30 pm
Just got back from Krogers, where they had the Fels Naptha, Borax, and A&H Super Washing Soda! Yes! I also got a bottle of white vinegar & a Downy ball. I’m all set, and off to grate some soap and try my 1st load!
Oh, and BTW…told Dh all about it, and how much money it will save, so of course he’s all for it!
23 Mar 2008 at 3:44 am
I’ve been making my homemade laundry detergent for a few years and it won’t gel or get goopy very well unless the soap has been mixed really really good when you first make it and the water is still hot. Its still good to use though even if it isn’t thick. I use Fels Naptha as the bar soap and the clothes come out just as clean as store bought soap. Washing soda doesn’t burn or I’d be blistered from head to toe by now.
25 Mar 2008 at 2:46 pm
I love that I found this site! I want to try one of the powdered recipes, but I was wondering if you can add essential oils to the dry recipes? If so, what kind of oil ratio would you use?
27 Mar 2008 at 8:02 am
Dee, I made and am using the powdered laundry detergent, as well as using white vinegar in a Downy ball for a softner/final rinse. Very happy with the results!
But, I have the same question as you re: essential oils…can I use an essential oil with my vinegar, and if so, how much of the EO do I add to the 1/4 to 1/2 cup of vinegar?
27 Mar 2008 at 11:27 am
I have used these recipes for several years now and add essential oil.
I have a front loader washing machine and I have halved the water amount to make a extra concentrate solution and use halve the amount in my washer.
I use bleach with whites when needed and always add baking soda for that extra boost. I have just found old fashioned bluing and will try that.
You may wash your clothing in the hottest water, but ecoli and salmonella have to be ingested to get sick.
27 Mar 2008 at 1:28 pm
For the vinegar rinse, I would make a big batch at once, about 10 drops per gallon or so of vinegar.
For the powdered laundry detergent, I don’t have anything specific for adding essential oils so you’ll have to wing it (but sure, you can add EO to the dry version). If you start small and work a drop or two up, you’ll find the right mix for you. If I were to try, I’d start with this:
Recipe #4 (Powdered)
I’d start with 5 drops, mixed in very well.
Reipe #9 (Powdered)
I’d start with 20 to 25 drops, mixed in very well.
The amounts of essential oil given (above and in the original post) are just suggestions. You could add more or less to accomodate your personal preference.
If anyone has some tried & true amounts of adding EO, please feel free to add your tips :).
27 Mar 2008 at 8:09 pm
[...] sent me a link to another site that had several more on it, but I haven’t tried any of those. They’re all made with the same ingredients, so [...]
30 Mar 2008 at 10:51 pm
The reaction between the White Rain product and the alkali (borax and/or washing soda) was almost certainly production of ammonia gas from an ammonium salt in the White Rain product. For instance, ammonium lauryl sulfate is a common ingredient of shampoos.
02 Apr 2008 at 12:37 am
[...] así que encontré muchas recetas de como preparar detergente casero, menos toxico y más barato. Las recetas varían en cantidad y en el proceso pero básicamente usan los mismos [...]
05 Apr 2008 at 6:11 pm
ok i tried another small batch of #1 this time i got colored water on the bottom and a thick (reminded me of that thick slime you could buy for kids to play with) on top LMAO i give up . maybe it was just not meant to be for me to make detergent hahaha ..nah i am gonna make the powder and hopefully i will have better luck.in the mean time my family is haveing fun laughing at me for my efforts .
05 Apr 2008 at 9:14 pm
What color is the water Amanda and what bar of soap are you using? If you’re mixing things well, I’m at a loss as to why things are separating like that. Things are pretty busy right now for me, but when I get a chance I’d like to mix up the batch and try to reproduce those results you’re getting just to see why it’s happening for you.
05 Apr 2008 at 10:37 pm
[...] are working on that! Today, we actually made our own washing detergent from a recipe that I found here. I’ll let you know how well it works [...]
08 Apr 2008 at 12:14 pm
I haven’t tried making my own laundry powder yet, but for folks concerned about the laundry powder dissolving in cold and/or hard water I have a tip. Dissolve the powder in a 1-2 gallon bucket of hot water and then pour into the washer. We used this method to dissolve Borax before adding to a cold wash and it seemed to do the trick.
08 Apr 2008 at 8:40 pm
I just made recipe #6.
How thick or gel like is this supposed to be. Once it cooled down
I am shocked at how THICK it actually is…I put it into an empty Tide container, so now not sure how I will mix it before I use it. Will it be fine if I just shake it with all my might? LOL! Thanks, Dawn
08 Apr 2008 at 9:44 pm
Hi Dawn, it should be easy enough to pour, it’s pretty gloppy but not so thick it won’t pour. If you want to thin it out a bit you can add about 1 cup of boiling water to the batch and shake/stir like crazy. That should make it less thick without reducing too much the amount of soap per load.
09 Apr 2008 at 11:08 am
I’ve made the powdered version #4 mentioned above. So far so good. I have a question however. I usually add liquid clorox bleach to my whites. Can I still use clorox with this recipe?
Thanks
09 Apr 2008 at 8:27 pm
Hey everybody!
I am a textile artist, and often use soda ash. I haven’t yet tried the homemade detergent, but I will soon.
If you are looking for “washing soda”, it is also known as “soda ash” and is used quite often in textile dyeing. It can be found at art supply stores, JoAnn Fabrics, and other places that sell textile products, like:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/ (1 lb soda ash $1.69, 10 lbs $9.69, 25 lbs $19.95)
http://www.createforless.com (1 lb soda ash for $2.59)
10 Apr 2008 at 12:26 pm
Shelly I used a splash of bleach in my whites with no problem. I double checked the boxes on Borax and the washing soda and there’s nothing on them that says not to use with bleach.
11 Apr 2008 at 1:12 pm
[...] 10 Homemade Laundry Detergent Recipes *Save big bucks making your own laundry detergent…These recipes were published over a year ago and are still one of Tipnut’s most popular and regularly visited tips! [...]
11 Apr 2008 at 6:04 pm
I have a friend who makes goat’s milk soap and I have used that for my soap in my homemade detergent. I have also used Zote, which is a pink bar laundry detergent I found at a local store. I am not too crazy about the scent though.
If you can locate a soap maker near you, you might be able to get seconds or chips for next to nothing. They might also be the coconut free variety if they are doing the lard stuff (which my friend does).
15 Apr 2008 at 7:01 am
I found this link from typing in Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda: thelaundrybasket.com
At that link it gave me this information:
“We offer Super Washing Soda in a 55-ounce carton. If you are having trouble locating this product, you may want to ask your local store manager to order it for you. It may be helpful to provide the UPC number: 33200-03020.”
I went to my local grocery store and told them the UPC and they ordered it!
Just thought that you might find this helpful to use where you live.
Admin Edit: fixed link
15 Apr 2008 at 1:22 pm
Great tip Becky, Thanks for sharing that :).
16 Apr 2008 at 7:50 am
Just wanted to say that I’ve been using recipe #4, but we have hard water, so I’m wondering if something in the recipe should be adjusted? More soap? More Borax or A&H? Anyone know?
Also, for dirtier clothes (Dh gets sweaty, greasy, and grungy when working on his cars) does adding a scoop of Oxyclean really help?
Thanks!
16 Apr 2008 at 1:15 pm
[...] Liquid Laundry Soap (also see Tipnut’s list of 10 laundry detergent recipes) [...]
16 Apr 2008 at 8:42 pm
Hi everyone. My mom and I have been making homemade liquid laundry soap for a few months. We often get samples of laundry detergent in the mail. One weekend while cleaning house, I decided to mix a Tide sample with the gloppy homemade laundry detergent. I shook it up and when I went to start my next load, it wasn’t gloppy! So, if the “gloppyness” of the homemade laundry detergent, bothers you, try adding a cup or so of a store bought laundry detergent to your liquid soap mix and shake. It pours out of the used laundry detergent bottles easily and helps keep the glop and water from seperating. There must be something in the store bought detergent to resolve this problem. I use a generic bradn so that it doesn’t add alot of cost to the homemade detergent.
As for the toxicity of the detergents discussed above, have you ever seen a fly or any other bug on a bar of soap? and if so, survive? This is true of even the most gentle soaps. That is kinda the point.
18 Apr 2008 at 2:52 pm
My mother is allergic to Quaternium-15, formaldehyde and the nearly 30 compounds that might have them. I need to make laundry detergent for her. My problem is the soap that you add. I need to know if any of these ingrediance are there. How do I find this information?
18 Apr 2008 at 3:19 pm
Can I use soap base? My mother is sencetive to smells. This seems perfect, but I have to get confirmation from someone.
18 Apr 2008 at 4:20 pm
Elsie try a search online for the product name and Material Safety Data Sheet…you should be able to find the ingredients that way. For example, search for:
Ivory soap Material Safety Data Sheet
I haven’t tried making the laundry detergent with just a soap base, I think it would work but I really don’t know.
19 Apr 2008 at 9:33 am
Thanks for the info. I just found this morning the web site householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/product.htl
You can find almost everything manufactured there.
19 Apr 2008 at 11:29 pm
as for the toxicity of nuclear waste, have you ever seen a fly or
germs survive that stuff? using my brilliant logic, that should make an excellent soap, and it might even get rid of gloppyness, which is a big concern.
(duh)
20 Apr 2008 at 8:54 pm
I’m so glad I came across this site. I’ve been making my own detergent for a little over a year now, and I’m very pleased so far with the results. I started out using a liquid recipe, but I found a dry powder to be much simpler to make. I like to add tea tree and lavender oils to the mix (about half a dropperful of each, then mix well). I like the scent it adds, and tea tree oil has natural cleansing properties as well. I’ve used a bit of patchouli as well, but my husband isn’t so crazy about the scent, so I don’t use it anymore.
If you have trouble finding washing soda, you can ask your grocer to special order it for you, or you can google it and order it online. I’ve done both.
I do have one question regarding recipe #10 - would this be safe to wash newborn or infant clothes in instead of using a traditional baby laundry detergent, like Dreft or Ivory Snow? Would any changes need to be made to make extra sure that it would be gentle enough? Thanks.
21 Apr 2008 at 10:15 am
Meredith there’s been some debate here about Washing Soda, but Arm & Hammer has it printed right on the box that it’s useful as a diaper soak.
Martha Stewart also suggests adding some Washing Soda in her Baby Laundry Article, see Baby Laundry 101.
I think Liquid Castile would be ok, an alternative would be a switch to a grated bar of Ivory Soap (to make 1/4 cup, first melted down in a bit of water).
21 Apr 2008 at 10:28 pm
Update….so far so good!
I am happy with my laundry results.
Clean clothes with a fresh scent.
I do have another question….
I had a very difficult time melting the soap, is this something that gets better with practice and does anyone have any other tips and tricks.
It seemed to take FOREVER!
Brenna!!! Thank you very much for the craft store tip for soda ash….that price sounds very reasonable!
~~Dawn~~
24 Apr 2008 at 5:19 am
Just a word of caution, if you are planning to add vinegar to your rinse water, please DO NOT use chlorine bleach in the wash. The combination produces a deadly gas and can kill. Even tho it’s down the drain, it’s still in the clothes and it’s lurking in the drain. Please be careful when rinsing with vinegar and washing with chlorine bleach.
I’ve been making a recipe using the Fels, borax and washing soda - both wet and dry. If I’m washing something in cold water I will take hot or boiling water and put it in a recycled cool whip container and mix until disolved (I do with both types, wet or dry), then add to washer and use as usual. Never had a problem not dissolving.
I love adding drops of citrus - lemon, orange, grapefruit essential oils. When I wash sheets, I mix a batch using lavander oil.
24 Apr 2008 at 6:07 am
I learned of Homemade detergents a few years ago but it clicked in my mind today that it realy works even better than industrial ones.
I now want to get the exact recipes for the dertegents so that i can try them out and experience the goodness of the new technology.
can someone please come to my aid.
24 Apr 2008 at 3:23 pm
Hi moses, there are 10 recipes at the top of the page you can try.
25 Apr 2008 at 3:53 pm
http://www.chemistrystore.com carries most of the ingredients
25 Apr 2008 at 5:03 pm
Another question…is it the borax that is actually doing the cleaning? I just noticed that recipe #9 has a lot more borax than the other ingredients in the recipe, and also that there is baking soda, compared to recipe #4. Does anyone have any experience with one recipe cleaning better than the other (just between recipes 4 & 9)? I’ve been using #4 for a couple of weeks now, and I’m still not sure I’m happy with the results. Sometimes, once they’re dry, I notice they don’t smell clean.
Any thoughts?
25 Apr 2008 at 5:49 pm
A few questions…
1. If you use the powdered versions of the laundry detergent, must you wash in hot water?
2. Has anyone had experience using this for cloth diapers?
3. I am a little concerned about soap residue. I know that vinegar in the downy ball was recommended. Can you also put white vinegar in the fabric softener spot (in the center spinner thing- are you following- lol!)?
I was THRILLED to find borax, washing soap, and FEls Naptha in HYVEE grocery store today. I actually cheered in the laundry isle and got strange looks from people. Can’t wait to try the recipes…!!!
25 Apr 2008 at 8:11 pm
Hi Melinda, all the items contribute to cleaning. I don’t know if Borax is a stronger cleaner than the rest though. When you say your laundry doesn’t smell clean sometimes, is it that they stink or have lingering odors from not being fully cleaned, or is it that you’re missing a fragrance normally found in commercial detergents? If it’s that they aren’t coming out clean, you can try increasing the amount of detergent used. If it’s that you’re missing the commercial fragrance, you can try adding some essential oils to the mix, see if that helps.
Emily, you don’t have to wash in hot water. I haven’t tried using this for cloth diapers (haven’t washed diapers in YEARS, lol) but some of the products do recommend themselves as diaper cleaners. Both Borax and Arm & Hammer Washing Soda recommend themselves to be used as a diaper/baby clothes wash. Yes you can try replacing fabric softener with vinegar.
26 Apr 2008 at 2:18 pm
I think the clothes that were smelling not so clean were my husband’s clothes he wears when working on the cars (his toys). I’m going to try increasing the amount of detergent for those clothes.
Thanks Tipnut!
27 Apr 2008 at 3:34 pm
We have a vegetable garden for the first time this year and being that last summer, we were in a serious drought in our area, I am worried about watering our garden. Does anyone know if the “gray water” from our washing machines rinse cycle would be safe to water garden if we use recipe #9, the powered detergent? I am worried about phosphates and the affecting of our plants.
Thanks!
27 Apr 2008 at 8:13 pm
Stacey I don’t know enough about that to say for sure, hopefully someone reading this can give some advice because I think that would be a great idea if it’s safe to do.
01 May 2008 at 11:10 am
This is the recipe I have been using for years. And yes, I have a HE washer ann dryer.
Homemade Laundry Detergent-Powdered
Ingredients:
2/3 bar Laundry Soap (equivalent of 1 cup grated) (any soap will work but Fels or Zote better for stains)*
½ Cup 20 Mule Team Borax
½ Cup Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda.
Container large enough to hold 2 cups of laundry detergent
Directions:
Grate the Fels Naptha laundry soap with a grater or use a food processor. Approximately 2/3 of a bar of soap will make 1 cup of grated soap.
Add the ½ cup of Borax and ½ cup of washing soda to the grated soap.
Shake and/or mix well
Use:
One tablespoon of detergent is sufficient per load of wash. If you have a high-efficiency machine, you might want to experiment with using a little less detergent for normal loads. If your clothes come out feeling stiff, lower the amount of detergent. For clothes that are heavily soiled, add a teaspoon more of the detergent..
Yield:
The recipe yields 2 cups of laundry detergent. If you use 1 tablespoon per load, you will be able to wash 32 loads of clothes.
Cost:
20 Mule Team Borax: $2.50 for 70 oz. - Cost per batch: .14 (4 oz needed for recipe)
Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda: $2.50 for 55 oz. Cost per batch .18.(4 oz needed for recipe)
Fels Naphtha: $1.24 per bar. Cost per batch: .83 (2/3 bar of soap needed for recipe) *
Total cost to make: $1.15 Yields 2 cups which translates to 3.5 cents per load.
*Chop into chunks w/ a knife and throw it in the food processor. Then put it in a roasting pan for a day or two to dry out, then into the food processor again to make a very fine powder. (Fels you don’t have to let it dry out) Actually the powder is so fine that I put a damp kitchen towel over the food processor while blending, and let it settle for a minute or so before opening so I don’t breathe in soap powder. This extra is just personal preference, and not necessary-many folks just use it grated up and mix the powder well before measuring out each load.
01 May 2008 at 10:51 pm
I do like all of these ideas and will try some of them soon! I am concerned though. My husband is a pipe & tank welder and works in a refinery. My old top loader has finally quit. We used to wash repeatedly to get a minimal amount of cleaning done to his clothes. We also have a front loader and since the top loader has died we recently purchased another front loader. I would love to have his clothes come lots cleaner. Plus I would like to preclean his clothes before I put them in the front loader, whch of course uses less water. I have used lots of things in trying to clean the smells and nasty oily gunk off his clothes. Oxi-Clean works nice (& best so far) but still doesn’t completely do the job. I hate that they still look dirty and smell horried after I wash and wash and wash them. What can I do differently? Please help! Thank you!!
02 May 2008 at 4:09 am
Thank you Melinda, lots of folks will be interested in that recipe :).
FixItMom: I don’t think you can do anything more than allow a period for pre-soak, then a full laundry cycle. You can try extra soap and some vinegar in the rinse cycle. See if that helps :).
02 May 2008 at 1:11 pm
vinegar in the center fabric softer port of your washer should be okay, I just started using homemad soap (love it), but have been using vinegar for some time for fabric softner, it seems to work.
I have found that my towels sometimes stink like vinegar, I have put a cheap essential oil in the vinegar bottle, and the smell of the oil does not come through, but the vinegar smell in my towels is gone! (I use an old softener container, and i just pour vinegar into it, and then about 10-20 drops of essential oil, so it lasts a long time!)
02 May 2008 at 1:14 pm
Fix it- My hubby gets greasy at his job too, I wash in hot water, use the homemade soap, plus dawn dishsoap, I don’t know howmuch, I just squirt it into the wash, aprox 1/8 cup, I know its allot, but his clothes come clean. I also double rinse his clothing, to ensure they are clean! I’ve put the dishsoap directly on larger greese stains, the stain generally remains, however, the greesy feel is gone.
03 May 2008 at 1:02 pm
HELP! I need feedback!
I made the dry laundry detergent (recipe #4). Two questions, if anyone has used this recipe…
While the bar soap Fels-Naptha is 5.1 oz, when I grated the entire bar, I almost had 3 cups (24 oz.), as I did not pack it down. So, I used that as the required “2 cups” of Fels soap. Should I have packed it down and used two BARS of soap? I ask this because….
I just used the 2 TABLESPOONS for a full load as the directions indicate. Not only is there absolutely no suds, but even after I added another 2 TBSPS to the machine, there were still no suds. Is this correct????
Thanks, Lisa
03 May 2008 at 3:46 pm
Hi Lisa, there won’t be suds so don’t worry about that :). The grated soap does not need to be firmly packed in.
Sara thanks very much for sharing your tips :).
10 May 2008 at 11:55 am
I have made one of the recipes and i like it. Although i have not tried the vinegar in the downy ball yet. I couldnt find the washing soda anywhere so i called Arm & Hammer and asked where in my area i could find it. It could be found at only one store. Its still only about $3 for a big box. Happy washing all.
11 May 2008 at 9:15 am
question for DH who is utterly paranoid about his new HE frontloader “babies”
i see that some people have used homemades in their HEs, but does anyone have comments on it long-term? i keep mentioning that these ingredients are sold in the LAUNDRY AISLE but he keeps grumping that he doesn’t want his warranty voided because we were washing with “twigs and berries.”
11 May 2008 at 7:31 pm
Question 1: Does anyone have any experience doubling the amount of water in recipe 1 (or any of the liquid recipes) and then just doubling the amount in the machine so you don’t have to stir it before each load. That way it would be more like the store bought which would add legitimacy that this is a real laundry detergent for my wife. For some people perception is reality.
I’m sure a double the amount of a diluted mixture would work fine, I jUst wouldn’t go through the hassle if it still congealed into glop and the soap separated out.
Question 2: do you use half the amount per load in a front loader? Thanks! David
13 May 2008 at 3:25 pm
For other sensitive folk
I am a new soapmaker from Australia and found an allergy free soft soap recipe in Alan Hayes book It’s So Natural, see itssonatural.com. It starts with making lye, the start of all soaps, including those grated in the recipes above. It was a bit more complicated than grating the soap, but I know it contains nothing I will react to. I used 250 grams of caustic soda from the cleaning section in our supermarkets in 3 cups of distilled water (because our bore water is hard) for the lye, and when that became lukewarm I added 3 cups of sunflower oil because I had no history of allergies with sunflowers and it was cheap. I used a stick mixer for a few minutes, left it overnight in a bowl covered with a plate. Then into a 5 litre lidded bucket I put 1.1/2 cups of soft soap, 1/4 cup of borax, 1/4 cup washing soda, 1 capful of eucalyptus oil for extra cleaning power, disinfectant and deodoriser and topped it up with warm water, used the stick mixer again. When cool I poured some into a 1.1/2 litre juice bottle which is light to handle - it glugs out freely. I have been using 3/4 cup in my small twin tub for softer clothes and towels and a cleaner wash to the point where some old stains left by my HE low allergy powder have already gone and older, darker ones are fading. I now have an untried front loader and will try a smaller amount with the vinegar rinse. The book gives instructions on making the lye, it boils, and is corrosive, so follow instructions carefully. This took longer than the grating recipes, but for me it has been very successful both for my sensitive skin and my clothing.
13 May 2008 at 6:20 pm
I just made my first batch of detergent (from recipe #4) and the wash cycle is on!!!
First, I’d like to say I also had a very hard time finding the washing soda. I found a number online to call 1-800-524-1328 and you can give them your zip code and they will tell you where you can buy the product in your area. In the Portland, OR area, Fred Meyer is the only place apparently.
2nd, I’d like to comment about the dangers (health and environmental) brought up about washing soda in previous comments…I went to look at the ingredients in my other detergents I have in the house, brands Planet and Seventh Generation (both reputable for being environmentally friendly). Well, they both contain Soda Ash - which is another term for Washing Soda from what I’ve read. If it’s in those products, I feel it’s pretty safe for including in a home made recipe, especially compared to most other commercial products out there and the ingredients in those which are mostly all petrolium based as well.
I too plan on using a home made detergent to launder cloth diapers and while I feel the recipe is safe for me, I’m not sure how it will be for sensitive baby skin…any one else used these recipes and laundered cloth diapers? Or have a different recipe specific for cloth diapers?
Thank you TipNut for the great info!
13 May 2008 at 11:46 pm
Thanks again to those adding their extra tips and info, very very helpful for everyone :)!
For the HE questions and the diaper/baby laundry, I can’t add anything more since I don’t have first hand experience with those areas. Feel free to jump in with your tips if you do :).
David, re: Question 1, I haven’t tried that and I’ve spent a bit thinking about it. I think you would still need to give it a good stir even though you’re increasing the water. I guess the only way to know for sure is to give it a shot, but maybe someone reading this will have more info.
18 May 2008 at 1:34 pm
I’m 74 years old. Oh, how I wish
I had had all this information when having a house full of kids.
Have sent this site to my 4 adult
kids, (total of 11 great grand
children still). I pray they use it because all are low on cash ….isn’t everyone? I am going
to try the powder form myself.
God bless you for your site.
18 May 2008 at 4:06 pm
I have been using Homemade Laundry Soap for 2 years now
I was not every able to find Washing Soda anywhere nearby
So, I modified… here is mine
I have tried it powdered & liked the results better with the liquid form, especially in this water that is extremely hard
I have given it to everyone I know by pouring it into smaller portions in re-used apple juice containers
I like to use 1/4 cup Vinegar in a Downy Ball as a rinse agent, not necessary but a little softer fabric when Line-Dried
I line-dry my clothes year-round (part of my save-the-earth commitments)
1 cup grated soap (I have used Zote, FelsNaptha, Octagon, and Ivory… I like Octagone & FelsNaptha the best)
4 cups water
1/3 cup Baking Soda
1/3 cup OxiClean (I use the generic sold at WalMart)
1/3 cup Borax
Boiling Pot
5 gallon cleaned, recycled paint bucket
Place water in boiler pot
Place grated soap in water
bring to boil & then turn down to low simmer… simmer until all soap is melted
Keeping heat on low, add dry ingredients… stir
continue stiring until mixture thickens & then turn off heat
Pour about 4 cups hot tap water into paint bucket
pour mixture into water that is in paint bucket, stir
allow to settle overnight
Use 1/4 cup for washload & if needed soak load overnight
for extremely greasy clothes:
add 1/4 cup Borax
soak overnight in the hottest water safe for the fabric
for very smelly clothes (excellent for removing pet odors or urine odors), do as for greasy clothes
for blood, catsup, etc:
add 1 scoop of OxiClean (use the scoop that came with the product, then soak overnight in cold water
This particular mix (with 1/4 cup added borax & overnight hot water soak) is the only thing I have ever seen that gets “hot-mud” out of clothes (my boyfriend is a painter/drywall finisher)
I have been able to remove old stains (except rust stains, use Rust-Out)
The Borax & the Baking Soda & the Oxyclean are all Alkaline
The Vinegar is a light acid
The alkalinity softens hard water… the Vinegar reverses the alkalinity & this helps with the rinse being clean
20 May 2008 at 11:47 pm
WOW!!! I’m going to try some of these recipes in my new HE front loader. i’m a little nervous, so like the idea of periodically cleaning out any residue - should this be bleach? or vinegar?
also, what’s a “downy ball”? can i just put vinegar for rinse in the machine’s container that says “fabric softener”?
thanks so much everyone!
25 May 2008 at 12:57 pm
I was wondering, does anyone know if Borax will fade out colors? Can I safely add it to whites and darks? Thanks!
25 May 2008 at 8:28 pm
I too have a HE washer and I add the vinegar in my washers fabric softner container and everything works just fine!
26 May 2008 at 3:12 pm
[...] Nut has an article up called 10 Homemade Laundry Soap Detergent Recipes. If you have a recipe that works well for you, let us know. I would prefer something that doesn’t [...]
30 May 2008 at 12:33 pm
Hi, I’d like to make the powdered detergent but I can’t find washing soda anywhere! Any advice on where to find it? In the meantime, I will substitute baking soda, though I know it’s not quite as heavy duty.
30 May 2008 at 1:02 pm
I went and read some comments, did some research and found a pool supply site that always has free shipping, and has very competitive prices. It’s called saveonpool.com. And, as someone above noted, you’re looking for a pH increaser with only Soda Ash in the ingredients list. This is what washing soda is. Since I can’t find it locally, this seems like the best deal for me.
30 May 2008 at 3:21 pm
I see that people are adding Oxyclean too. That is great but I can save you money just put in a 1/2 cup of 3% Hydrogen peroxide. The stuff in the brown bottle. It is a great disinfectant too.
I wash produce with 3% hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar solution. It washes away every thing and does not leave a taste.
02 Jun 2008 at 9:22 pm
I am really excited to find this website. I have just recently gotten into making my own cleaning supplies and liked the idea of making my own laundry detergent.
I made up recipe #8, but I added 1 cup of borax to it. I was going to use it today but when I took the lid off the bucket there was a lot of foam on the top and underneath the foam it was a milky looking water. So i put the whole batch back on the stove and reheated it. Do not know if this was the right thing to do but I did it. I was just wondering if it is still really watery will it still work correctly.
The other question I have is can this be used with cold water. I wash pretty much every thing in cold water.
Thanks in advance for any help
Tammy
04 Jun 2008 at 6:24 pm
You mentioned that if you have very hard water or well water you may have to adjust the recipes. What needs to be adjusted? What are the amounts to use? I have well water and I am wanting to try making my own laundry soap. We do not have a water softner either.
I am so excited about trying one to the recipes. Looking foward to your reply.
Thanks, Gloria
04 Jun 2008 at 9:54 pm
any one looking for soda wash on a well ? check with the local water filteration guys for Soda Ash… after looking all over the laundry isles I found out my hubby who fixes pumps and installs water systems had it right on the shelf in the shop!!! boy he got a good giggle but hey who knew, for a year now I have used baking Soda because I just couldn’t find the wash. Oh well the reason I started making my own soap was because we moved to land covered in poision oak and I am really alergic. Hubby can roll in the stuff and the dogs are always out so using the fels-napa soap has kept me from getting any tranfer oils from washing his clothes and then mine. Dr said the fels nappa one of the few soaps that keep the oils from spreading. yea for me finding this great life saver!!!!
05 Jun 2008 at 6:04 am
I haven’t made any of the soaps yet, but I saw where trying to find soda, and someone mentioned Soda Ash. Well I just realized my DH works with the stuff all the time and I was his clothes which are caked in it. He works at a Chemical Plant, and people come in and purchase chemicals for there pools, water supplies, etc. So if you have access to a chemical plant or has someone that buys pools supplies in bulk maybe you can order Soda Ash also.
I can just see DH when I tell him I want a big ole bag of Soda Ash! LOL
Gloria
05 Jun 2008 at 8:57 am
Which of these recipes would be best for washing cloth diapers? Anyone had any particularly good or bad luck doing so?
05 Jun 2008 at 12:00 pm
Thank you for posting this recipe. I have done the one with borax and Washing soda in it and the one with just washing soda in it. My clothes are cleaner (Recently I washed a pair of pants with bike grease on the leg and it came out beautifully), My skin itches less and it’s money saving while good for the enviroment.
Also some things I have learned by doing this recipe:
1.) Washing soda can also be found at some natural health food stores. I was very fortunate to find mine at a independent dealer.
2.) WM and some other big box stores sell borax.
3.) You don’t need to buy expensive soaps for this recipe. I have scored a bunch of them this through walgreens (their store brand soap) and through yard sales.
4) If you have no luck in finding washing soda, put some baking soda in a cup (the measurement required in the recipes) and heat it on high in your microwave. I would recommend about ten minutes, maybe less than that. when you are done, the baking soda will look like ash, which means it’s now washing soda.
5) Other excellent container ideas are:
Tidy Kats or any other cat litter company containers, old 2 liter soda pop bottles and milk jugs (rinse them out good so the liquid det. doesn’t stink), You may also want to keep a couple of small water bottles or travel size containers, if you plan on doing laundry when you are out of town, state or country.
Lastly I have a question, does anyone of a good laundry stain remover that you can make? I don’t mind using waterless hand cleaner for the stains but I would like to make a stain remover from scratch.
Thanks for the recipe, the replies to my questions and for this site.
06 Jun 2008 at 6:42 pm
Shannon, I have used recipe #4, the powdered detergent, for my cloth diapers, and they turn out just fine. Just as well, if not better than the store detergent I was using before. When I soak them in my washer, I do add just a little bit of it, and drain it, and then I add a little bit more when I run the wash cycle. The diapers actually have come out cleaner than they did before, less stains, etc.
06 Jun 2008 at 7:18 pm
Oh yeah, I forgot to add that I also put vinegar in the downy ball with the diapers to make sure there is no soap residue left on them!
07 Jun 2008 at 12:44 pm
Thanx for the great ideas. I found a website (sorry don’t remember the address) for recipes for pretreatment of stains and found this recipe
1/2 cup ammonia
1/2 cup white vinegar
2 Tablespoons laundry detergent
2 quarts warm water
I hope this helps.
08 Jun 2008 at 2:08 pm
Hi! I just made my first batch of laundry soap. It turned out well. To answer Melissa’s question (from 2007), Kiss My Face 100% Olive Oil Soap works for receipe 8. I used vinegar instead fabric softener and my laundry came out clean and soft. And, once the laundry dried completely, the laundry did NOT smell like vinegar. One more thing, if you’re looking for a nice container in which to store your homemade laundry soap, try a cleaned 40 pound plastic kitty litter container. It has a lid, a handle, and is very sturdy. I think it holds about four gallons.
08 Jun 2008 at 2:11 pm
Oh - I nearly forgot. Some people have claimed that washing soda is dangerous. If baking soda changes to washing soda at high tempuratures, why is baking soda safe for baking? (I’m an amateur classist, not a chemist!)
08 Jun 2008 at 6:50 pm
Thanks for the tip about the stain remover.
I have also tried the neutrogena bar soap for this recipe and it has no oils in it, rinses out very well, is easy to melt on the stovetop and it comes unscented. The only downfall is the price. I have been fortunate to score the bars off ebay, at yard sales and thrift shops. Time to time, Nuetrogena will send out coupons or samples to you or have them in magazines, so that way the bars are a bit cheaper for people to buy. I have bought them with my coupons and they end up being cheaper than the store brand bar soap.
BBW Glycerin soap is also excellent, very cheap (My store will sell the bars at the semi annual sales for a $1 each). These are fragnant but they leave no oil on the clothes afterwards.
Also If you can’t find washing soda, You can use a little more soap to make up for the Washing soda.
09 Jun 2008 at 12:44 pm
[...] Try making your own detergent. This is only for those who have the time to make it and the space to store it, but you can save by making your own powder or liquid detergent. [...]
09 Jun 2008 at 2:41 pm
I just tried recipe#4. A couple of questions:
#1 I have a ‘large-load’ top-loader Maytag. Is 2 TBSP enough for a big load?
#2 I did a dark load and many of the black/navy items came out with residue on them. More detergent needed? I ended up rinsing again.
Before trying this homemade recipe, I had been using 1/2 cup Borax and 1/8 cup Tide liquid detergent,pre-mixed with warm water. Very pleasing results with little or no residue. But would like to switch to the homemade stuff permanently.
Would appreciate any tips.
09 Jun 2008 at 5:12 pm
Hi heza, I wonder if you had the laundry machine packed too full (for the residue problem)? There shouldn’t be any residue. Also you might want to try running the water in the washing machine first, add the soap and let it dissolve a bit before adding the laundry (like you normally would with powdered detergents). If you aren’t filling the loads to full and the powdered detergent is given a chance to dissolve before adding laundry and you’re still having problems with residue, try reducing the amount of detergent per load.
2 TBS should be enough for a full load, if you find it isn’t getting your clothes clean you can up the amount.
13 Jun 2008 at 7:45 am
I’m mixing up powdered recipe (#4) as I type, and I have a ?? about amounts. We have to use the laundromat, and we usually use the huge front loaders (you know, the ones that cost $4 a load vs. the regular machines that are $1.75 a load) How much soap should I throw in? Thanks!
13 Jun 2008 at 8:09 am
I can’t say for sure shannon, I’d start with 3 TBS and see how the clothes turn out, adjusting as needed.
13 Jun 2008 at 8:48 am
Hexa:
2 I did a dark load and many of the black/navy items came out with residue on them. More detergent needed? I ended up rinsing again.
do a couple of tbls of vinegar in the rinse cycle and this should get rid of the soap mess. Good luck
13 Jun 2008 at 9:32 am
I was wondering if anyone had tried adding Calgon water softener to their powdered laundry soap recipe to prevent soap residue. I don’t know how cost effective it would be, but I am making some soap to sell and thought it might be a good substitute for the vinegar rinse.
13 Jun 2008 at 1:29 pm
Excellent advice, and wonderfully helpful people!!
I’ll add - for a stain remover - just take the bar of Fels Naptha and rub on stains (esp good for the ‘ring around the color’) before throwing into the laundry! (my grandma gave me that tip - years ago, always found it to be much more effective than the Shout it out stuffs )
Also I want to add once again - do not combine vinegar and bleach!!
Vinegar rinse helps get out the soap - perfect - I’m sure you could probably google to find more reinforcement of this as well as - -
with towels, you dont need any fabric softner to them…
Thanks again, I havent tried the homemade soap, just found the site… and I agree with above posters the washing soda isnt as caustic as say… Oxyclean (dont be putting your bare hands in a mix of that without knowing it will hurt!!)
Loved the tip way at the top about cleaning diapers with the mix according to box directions and Martha Stewart… I used borax for lots of things when the kids were young… cant remember all of them now tho!)
15 Jun 2008 at 8:20 am
Hi, I’ve not tried any of these recipes yet but intend to very soon.
I see some people cite environmental and safety concerns about washing soda. Calcium carbonate is a natural product, taken from certain dried lake beds, burnt seaweed (where it gets the name soda ASH)and is now made from table salt.
It is used in food (E500)as an anti-caking agent, a flavouring in ramen noodles and in sherbet.
If anyone wants to follow this up I got all this info from wikipedia and a few other sites by just googling ‘washing soda’.
I have a tub of Vanish stain remover and when I looked at the ingredients found it mainly contains washing soda - at 3 times the price! I know what I’m using in future!
16 Jun 2008 at 10:08 am
I made recipe #4 for powdered laundry soap. It is the easiest thing in the world to make but 2 tablespoons of the soap is nowhere near enough to clean a load of laundry. I used 1/2 cup and could use more. It doesnt clean my dishtowels at ALL. I used Ivory soap. Next time I’ll try a different soap. The recipe is so easy to follow I cant imagine what I could be doing wrong. DO the clothes need to be soaked first?
16 Jun 2008 at 8:19 pm
I don’t like Ivory soap for my body, not surprised it doesn’t seem to wotk as well for the laundry soap. I just bought all of my ingredients at WM for #9 and got fels naptha (3 bars to be exact). Thet didn’t have washing soda, but a 4lb box of baking soda that I will be throwing in the microwave shortly.. thanks so much for that tip!
I can’t wait to make this and make my new house budget stretch farther!
17 Jun 2008 at 5:45 pm
I made powdered detergent #4 with Fels Naptha and used it today for the first time. Everything seemed to turn out really well. I used a little extra washing soda in the bin to help things out and used white vinegar in the rinse and there seems to be no issue. Anyone know if you can add a fragrance to the powdered detergent? My husband misses the smell of the fabric softener. I think the clothes smell fine, but is there any way to add essential oils or something to the powdered soaps? Thanks!
18 Jun 2008 at 1:27 am
Just an FYI on Fels Naptha bar laundry soap. It IS made with petrochemicals and is not a ‘green’ option and should not be used in grey water collection or septic systems.
The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the product states:
INCOMPATIBILITIES: Strong oxidizers, acids, bases, chlorine.
I don’t know if this would cause problems with OxyClean or other additives.
http://www.soapsgonebuy.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=D1001&Show=TechSpecs
Using soap (a animal or vegetable fat by product) will leave residues on your clothes and in your washer. To avoid this, use 1/2 cup vinegar per load of laundry (in a Downy Ball or fabric softener dispenser) as a rinse agent and fabric softener.
Also, sodium lauryl sulfate is a common ingredient in soaps and body products of all types. It is a foaming agent among other things (and often contains coconut ingredients). SLS is what normally causes irritation in a lot of people and if you can find a soap to use in these recipes that does not contain it, the recipe will be better suited for an HE washing machine as well as your skin.
19 Jun 2008 at 7:39 pm
I have been making/using and loving one of the powdered detergent recipes, but am almost out and do not have any bar soap left in the house to use in this tonight, so I thought I would try one of the liquid recipes:
Recipe #10
1 cup Vinegar (white)
1 cup Baking Soda
1 cup Washing Soda
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
Mix well and store in sealed container.
Note:
Soap will be lumpy, goopy and gel-like. This is normal. Just give it a good stir before using. Make sure soap is covered with a lid when not in use. You could also pour the homemade soap in old (and cleaned) laundry detergent bottles and shake well before each use.
Please help! This is a disaster! I know from grade school that mixing vinegar and baking soda makes a nice volcano, so I decided to “dilute” the vinegar by adding it first and the baking soda last. No matter, I did not get a volcano, but I did get some sort of chemical reaction. My old reused container that I mixed it in started heating up in my hand, then I realized that the mixture was not turning to gel, but something more like cement! I tried adding about a cup of hot water to soften it all up, but, didn’t really help, so now I am just afraid that this concoction is going to eat through a table and blow up! : - )
Anyone know what is wrong with this recipe or do you have another no-cook recipe using liquid castile soap???
20 Jun 2008 at 11:43 am
Hi Karen, that is definitely not how it should turn out, the smell is a chemical reaction. The only thing I can think is that the soap you used was not pure liquid castille. Is there an additive maybe in the bottle you used?
Also I see a blooper, the note about liquid detergent is for all the recipes, not #10. Number 10 is actually a powder.
Karen this is a quick recipe to try so I will mix up a batch today and post the results in here. I do recall that the vinegar will foam so I mixed things slowly. I will clarify the recipe instructions after I whip up a batch.
I did a quick search online and found this alternate recipe for you (for liquid castille):
The Green Guide:
LAUNDRY ROOM
Laundry Detergent
1 oz. liquid castile soap
1/2 cup washing soda
1/2 cup borax
1/4 cup baking soda or 1/4 cup white vinegar
Using the liquid castile soap as a base, combine with washing soda, borax (for stains and bleaching), and either baking soda (reduces static and softens fabrics) or white vinegar (softens fabrics, reduces static and bleaches clothes). If you feel like your clothes aren’t clean enough, play around with the amount of liquid castile soap, using from 1 oz. to 1 cup.
====
My notes:
1 oz is about 3 TBS.
This recipe is different in that it uses borax and it’s either vinegar OR baking soda. But it sounds like a nice one to try.
I’ll post my results in here later today regarding recipe #10 as well as clarify the instructions a bit so that there’s no confusion about the liquid/powder results.
21 Jun 2008 at 3:46 am
Ok I made two batches of the #10 recipe using these ingredients:
-Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps
Peppermint Hemp Pure-Castile Soap
-Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
-Arm & Hammer Baking Soda
-Vinegar
I poured the liquid soap into the bowl first, stirred in the washing soda, then baking soda, then added the vinegar in small batches at a time (the recipe foams up at first).
There were no problems, the mixture is like a thick powder detergent, smells minty fresh (because of the castile soap I used) and soapy from the washing soda. I even put my fingers in the dish to break up some of the hard clumps, no burning at all on the hands.
The second batch I made up I reversed the order of ingredients to be similar to Karen’s method:
-Vinegar
-Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
-Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps
Peppermint Hemp Pure-Castile Soap
-Arm & Hammer Baking Soda
I found it a little harder to mix but not hard like cement.
Both batches were slightly warm, not hot, I think that’s just the activity from the baking soda & vinegar. It wasn’t uncomfortable at all to the touch and I spent some time crushing the lumps into powder, so I did use pressure with my bare hands.
I did find the smell to be minty & soapy from the washing soda, but not stinky like a chemical reaction would (I somehow got the idea that Karen’s smelled, but she didn’t say that).
I did two loads of laundry with this mix, first tossing in 1/2 cup of all the hard lumps that I didn’t break down. I let them sit in water for a few minutes, swishing around and breaking the lumps in the water (they are quite hard).
The second load I used 1/2 cup of the powdery stuff.
Both loads turned out clean and the lumps from the first load were reduced in the wash and didn’t show up on the clothes after drying.
**This is a powder detergent, not a gel or liquid. I’ll fix the blooper so there’s no more confusion.
21 Jun 2008 at 9:54 am
I wonder if I can use a variation of this recipe for body wash. Using say ivory, baking soda (which I use instead of washing powder as finding it in my area is rare) vegetable glycerin, and maybe something like jojoba oil?
21 Jun 2008 at 2:35 pm
[...] couple of months ago I mentioned that I was using a laundry detergent that I had made myself from a recipe I had found online. Well, we have been using that for three months now, long enough for me to say we LOVE [...]
24 Jun 2008 at 4:35 pm
[...] Tipnut is full of household hints and frugal tips. From natural cleansers or making your own laundry soap, crafts, gardening and organizing, this site has it [...]
26 Jun 2008 at 7:07 pm
I have a bunch of essential oils that I purchased on ebay and decided to use them up in the HMLD. This smells nicely (light scent) and it still leaves my clothes really clean and with no oil stains. You may want to try very little oil so it’s not strong smelling and it doesn’t leave oil stains on the clothes.
26 Jun 2008 at 7:12 pm
You can probably use body wash for this, leslie, but I would not recommend it being cooked on the stovetop. One poster on here did that and ended up with a big mess.
For those who want to try castile soap but are scared of the prices, try store brand castile soap (trader joe’s has an excellent store brand soap, small but cheap. If you want a bigger quantity, they have the dr. bronners there for 8.99-50% cheaper than other stores) or try the dr bronner’s castile soap in a bar (the bars are 2.00 to 5.00 each, depending on where you live). TJ’s doesn’t have the dr. bronner’s bar soap but most places such as target and walgreens have them.
28 Jun 2008 at 10:37 am
I made my first batch of laundry soap and I can’t say I was impressed and not impressed. I am a person who believes clean comes in a smell and since the homemade version tends not to have a “perfume” odor I panic thinking my laundry isn’t clean. So I started using the 1/2 cup of home made and 1/2 a cap full of the store bought. This has helped with my need for scent.
I store my homemade in an unlided bucket. It looks like a pickle bucket and I bought it at Home Depot. I read on here that there is a possibility of bacteria if the stuff isn’t preserved properly. Am I potentially exposing my family to unseen bacteria? I also have been using cold water thinking this was saving me and getting my stuff just as clean, but from I read this is also bad. So I will make it a point to wash out my machine with a hot water bleach bath I guess.
I am now going to try the softener recipe for the first time and I am also a bit nervous about this. I hate the smell of vinegar and worry this will be my new scent.
28 Jun 2008 at 2:21 pm
[...] site. Tipnut is full of household hints and frugal tips. From natural cleansers or making your own laundry soap, crafts, gardening and organizing, this site has it [...]
03 Jul 2008 at 7:26 pm
I am wondering if I can add leftover oil from my reed defuser in this, along with perfume oil and body splash?
I am asking this because the reed defuser is a mixture of essential oil and rubbing alcohol.
Thanks
03 Jul 2008 at 7:47 pm
Mary I’m not sure about the rubbing alcohol and whether or not there would be a reaction with the washing soda or borax. The body splash might also contain an ingredient that would react badly.
As an experiment I did make up one of the powder detergents using liquid dish soap instead of liquid castille (recipe #10) and there was a nasty reaction–so I stay away from soaps that aren’t listed above (castile, ivory, etc.). Also there was a comment up above somewhere that someone had a bad reaction from using a liquid shower gel.