Here’s a whopper of a list featuring over two dozen socks to knit, some are very simple and easy to make (perfect for beginners) while others are more intricate in their design. I also added a couple great resources at the bottom of the page that offer dozens more freebies. I’ll be adding to this collection over time so you may want to bookmark this page for reference, enjoy!
Poseidon: These are worked from the toe up and feature a waving lace design on the top of the foot and around the leg. Free pdf download.
Basketweave Ribbing: Worked on circulars (can switch to DPNs if you prefer).
Old Shale: These are designed to be worn with the cuff folded down.
Pom Pom Peds: A quick project perfect for both beginners and those that are more advanced.
Stash Busters: Made with 5 DPNs and a great project to use up leftover yarn.
Tatami: The woven “tatami” effect in the body is created with a simple six-stitch and eight-round repeat.
Swirl: The stitch design is very intuitive and easy to adjust to different sizes and gauges.
Bayerische: These are for a very stretchy pair that are 7″ in circumference at the ankle (unstretched). It will probably comfortably fit anyone with an ankle up to 9.5″.
Pumpkin Vine: Each of the odd rows contains the same elements, rearranged, this makes the zig-zag vine. The even rows are all basically the same, but they start at a different point each time.
Elegant Cable: The simple cable design runs down the centre front and back, with snug ribbing in between. You’ll find another project at bottom of page.
Easy & Snuggly: Instructions are easy to follow, and fits snuggly and doesn’t droop at all.
Basic Ribbed: This design was developed as a solution to two problems: Those with a plain stocking-stitch leg tend to fall down and k1p1 ribbing is too tedious.
Criss Cross: Has a crisscrossing lattice of stitches, pdf download available.
Rockyview: Sized to fit women’s 8 1/2 foot (US).
Basic Cabled: These are a small step up from simple 2-by-2 ribbed versions, with the addition of a 6-stitch cable on both sides of the leg (twisting in opposite directions).
Raspberry: A vintage-style design, these tie closed with I-cord threaded through eyelets around the top.
Spiral Tube: Made with stretch yarn (2 balls per pair) and DPNs (U.S. 3). Finished size to fit lady’s 5/6 (7/8, 9/10).
Wait, There’s More! You’ll find dozens of lovely goodies on these pages…
- Knitty.com Magazine Archives (For The Feet)
- Sheri at The Loopy Ewe: Has nearly a dozen lovelies (pdf downloads)
- DIY Blockers: Made with a piece of plastic placemat (or other thick sheet) and cardboard.
- Make A Pair At Once Tutorial
The Beehive Aladdin Heel
*First published August 22, 2007 and moved to this page for better organization
This is a two page spread from an old Beehive book detailing the instructions for replacing a worn out heel without unraveling the foot as well as replacing a worn out toe. I think it’s from the 1940s, it’s pretty old.
Click the picture on the left to view a larger, readable size;
(then click on the pic to zoom in).
You Can Replace A Worn Out Heel Without Unraveling The Foot
When Replacing a Worn Out Heel
Unpick the sewn instep seams. Pull the coloured thread out of the knitted portion. This releases sts. in the foot and sts. of the heel. Put the foot sts. on a spare needle. (If any difficulty is experienced pulling the coloured thread, unpick it with a needle). Unravel the heel sts. to the beginning of the heel sts. (If any difficulty is experienced in unraveling the wool, cut off the heel flap a few rows above the beginning of the heel and unravel the remaining few rows). Pick up these heel sts. on 2 needles. See Picture 3. Slip the heel sts. onto 1 needle and work the heel as given originally in the instruction. Graft these sts. to the sts. left on the spare needle. See Picture 4. If a coloured thread is used for the Grafting you may replace the heel again in the same manner. Re-sew the instep seams at each side of the heel flap. See Pictures 1 and 2. Press all seams.
When Replacing a Worn Out Toe
Pull out or unpick the coloured thread to release the sts. for unraveling. (If any difficulty is experienced in unraveling the wool, cut off the toe a few rows above the beginning of the shaping and unravel the remaining few rows.) Arrange the sts. on the needles as they were originally and rework the toe as before, grafting with coloured wool. For Grafting, see below.
TO SHAPE AND GRAFT TOE
To Shape Toe:
1st round: 1st needle: Work to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 2nd needle: K1. Sl.1. K1. p.s.s.o. Work to last 3 sts. K2tog. K1. 3rd needle: K1. Sl.1. K1. p.s.s.o. Work to end of needle. 2nd round: Work across each needle. Repeat these 2 rounds to 30 sts. in round. Knit the sts. of 1st. needle onto end of 3rd needle. Break wool. Using a strand of (A) wool 12 ins. long, thread through a wool needle and graft toe. For Grafting, see opposite (Tipnut: see below).
To Graft Toe:
*Inserting the wool needle as if for knitting into 1st. st. of front needle, draw it through the st. and slip the latter off the needle; inserting the needle, as if for purling into 2nd st. of front needle, draw wool through and let the st. remain on the needle; taking the wool under front needle and inserting the wool needle, as if for purling, into 1st. st. of back needle, draw the wool through this st. and slip the latter off the needle; inserting the needle, as if for knitting, into the 2nd st. of back needle, draw the wool through and let the st. remain on the needle; bring the wool forward under the needle and repeat from * until all sts. are worked off, darning in the end of wool securely.
To Finish Heel:
Using the (A) wool, sewing on the wrong side, sew up each side of heel flap evenly to the sts. cast on at the instep, see Picture 1 on page 27 (Tipnut: picture is at top of post). Break wool, darning in the ends securely. Heel is now complete, see Picture 2 on page 27.
Darn in all ends. Sew side and back seams (if it has been worked on two needles). Put socks on wooden stretchers of correct size. Press with damp towel and hot iron, being careful not to flatten ribbing. Leave flat until dry.
After washing always dry flat on wooden stretchers.